Installing T-Lock Laminate Flooring in Our Conversion Van

A few weeks ago we did a post on how we insulated our conversion van. The last thing we did in the insulation process was laying down Reflectix on the floor. Now we get to install the rest of the floor!

There are three main parts to a flooring installation for a van build:

  1. Insulation
  2. Subfloor
  3. Flooring

There are several options for van flooring. Many van dwellers choose vinyl flooring because it’s thin and waterproof. Our neighbor offered us some old hardwood flooring, but the ¾” thickness would have taken too much height out of the van.

We ultimately decided to use laminate flooring because it looks better than vinyl, it’s easy to install, and it’s thinner than hardwood. We found some gorgeous Tarkett T-Lock laminate with interesting wood grain effect at Menard’s (our new favorite store! And no, we don’t get paid to say that). We needed 3 boxes to do the entire floor.

Update from the Road

Because of some leaky rear door seals, we had a run in with mold growing on our subfloor. We ended up ripping out the entire floor, installing a new mold-proof subfloor, and redoing the flooring with interlocking vinyl planks.

Vinyl planks are more expensive than the laminate we originally used, but they're waterproof and much more durable - so if you can spare the cost we think they're worth it.

Read about mold prevention and our new floor here.

Installing interlocking vinyl planks follows the same process as the laminate installation below, so continuing reading for instructions.

       

Installing Laminate Flooring in Our Van

We had a few frustrations and setbacks, but once we got into a good groove the flooring install flew by. We got most of it done in a day.

What We Used

Step 1: Insulate the Metal Van Floor

Reflectix-on-floor

A metal van floor doesn’t provide much of a temperature barrier between you and the outside, so you’ll want to put down some sort of insulation. We used Reflectix for this because it’s thin (less than 1/4" thick) and easy to work with.

The R-value of Relfectix is minimal and its reflective properties won’t work if there isn’t an air gap, but it’s better than nothing. An even better choice would be 1/2" pink extruded polystyrene sheets.

We were able to roll the Reflectix straight down the length of the van, then Jayme made cardboard templates for the wheel wells and other odd shapes along the walls. We then traced the templates onto the Reflectix and cut pieces to fit. We used 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive to glue down the Reflectix, and Gorilla Tape to cover the seams between pieces.

Step 2: Lay Down Your Subfloor

subfloor-complete

The subfloor provides a sturdy base on which to lay your actual flooring. We used 1/4” plywood underlayment for this, which worked perfectly. Many van lifers use thick 3/4” plywood for their subfloors, but it’s not necessary to go that thick and it cuts out too much height. This is a van, not a house!

Installing the subfloor was just like installing the Reflectix. We started by laying down a full sheet and glued it down with High Strength 90.

subfloor-sheet

We then used the templates we made for the Reflectix to trace and cut pieces for the sides and back of the van. The jigsaw really comes in handy here!

subfloor-jigsawwide

You'll probably have to fine tune your cuts before your subfloor will fit perfectly around things like the wheel wells and fuel pipe.

subfloor-finetuning

Step 3: Start Laying Out Your Flooring

flooring-half

You’ll want to put down the laminate flooring one row at a time. We started with the passenger side because we could run one row along the side door and wheel well all the way to the back.

Start the next row with a half piece so that it’s offset from the first row. We used a miter saw to cut the first piece in half, but you could also use a jigsaw or circular saw if you have a steady hand or a jig.

The T-Lock system takes a little getting used to, but once you get the hang of it it’s pretty easy. Here’s how you lock pieces together:

Lock the long edge together first by inserting the new piece at an angle.

t-lockflooring

Use scrap wood and a hammer to tap the end of the board and lock in the short side.

knocking-flooring

That’s pretty much it! This flooring is a “floating floor,” which means you don’t need nails or glue to hold it down.

flooringalmostdone

This Youtube video helped us a lot on the install. Check it out if you're having trouble.

Step 4: Use Templates to Cut Flooring For Irregular Spaces

flooringsideview

We used the same templates from the Reflectix and subfloor installs to cut and trace pieces of laminate flooring for the odd-shaped areas at the back and sides of the van.

Note: You may want to cut off your laminate flooring a few inches from the back of your van. We spent time tracing and cutting our flooring to perfectly match the contours of the rear of our van only to find out that the flooring is so thick it makes the doors stick. We had to recut the end pieces to fix this.

Look At That Beautiful Floor!

flooringdonenight

It’s finally starting to look like a home! Once we finished the install, we were so excited that we had to climb into the van for a little dance sesh celebration, tap dance style. John can’t fully stand up in the van, but he’s great (terrible) at dancing hunched over. Now that we have our flooring installed we can start on our walls!

Stay tuned for more build updates and don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @gnomad_home and on Facebook at: Gnomad Home.

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Mitch
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Mitch

First big fan of your site, keep it up! Second, did ya’ll screw through the subfloor or laminate floor to secure the matierals to the floor of the actual van at all? I have seen others who have drilled up through the floor of the van and into the plywood subfloor. Or did you only use adhesive? What do you do to combat the floor sliding or moving? Does the adhesive suffice? Or is it that once you start securing the bed/shelving to the walls and flooring they kind of lock the floor in place? Thanks for any feedback in… Read more »

John
Admin

Hi Mitch, Glad you enjoy the site! We used 3M High Strength 90 spray adhesive to secure the 1/4″ plywood subfloor to the insulation below it. The laminate flooring we have is a “floating floor” so we did not secure it at all. The floor is held down pretty well by the weight of everything on top of it, but we did screw down all of furniture pieces (bed frame, bench, and kitchen cabinets) using angle brackets and 3/4″ screws. The screws are penetrating both the floor and subfloor, and we also bracketed all the furniture to the walls for… Read more »

Monica
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Monica

Thanks for all of this information! Question about where your floor meetings the door behind the passenger seat: how did you get the full build up (insulation, subfloor, laminate) to fit under the plastic floor cover?? Having trouble with ours – will probably need a trim piece – but curious if you did anything in particular.

John
Admin

Hi Monica, Great question! We had the same problem. Our plastic floor cover (the step protector for the side door) comes out, so we basically placed it on top of the floor. Since the floor we put in was so much higher than the stock floor, this created a gap on the underside that we filled with additional insulation. But it was not the best setup. Just a couple of weeks ago we redid our entire floor (we had some mold/water damage to the subfloor due to leaky rear door seals). This time, we cut the subfloor so it would… Read more »

Monica
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Monica

It does help, thanks! Will look forward to that post 🙂

Flor
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Flor

Hello! Thanks for all this awesome information. Super complete and clear. We recently bought a 1995 Ford Econoline Conversion van and we are following your guides.
The black box next to the wheel, on the right side of the rear, is that a heat-a/c unit? Did you guys remove it? Or just leave it there? Did you disconnect any valve/cable? We have the same thing in our van and we don’t know what to do wih it! We wouldn’t mind leaving it there, but i’m concerned that it might be dangerous?
Thanks!!

John
Admin

Hi Flor, that’s exciting! The black box in the rear of our van is a rear air handler/AC/heater core unit. It’s certainly possible to take it out, but it’s not something you can do yourself. These units are connected to the main AC and heat system via piping that runs under the van. To safely remove it, you would need a qualified professional to depressurize your AC system, cut the pipe and cap it off (which would likely require a custom piece being fabricated), and recharge your AC. The heating lines aren’t pressurized, so you could in theory cut and… Read more »

Veronica
Guest

Looks awesome! We are in the process of insulating the floor and wondering if we need to put wooden beans on the metal floor to make sure we secure the the subfloor. Did you drill your kitchen/bed frame into the laminate flooring?

Veronica
Guest

Ooops, just realized you answered this with the comment below!

John
Admin

Hi Veronica, glad you found the answer! 🙂 I would also recommend checking out our recent blog post about mold prevention and redoing our floor for some new tips on installing a van floor.

Best of luck!

~John

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